Thursday, August 18, 2011

FallFest





The sun has definitely heeled over into autumn, and mornings here at North Face Lodge have started to get routinely frosty. Staff members start to think of what the next season holds--employment, return to school, on to graduate school, back to the winter job. To celebrate the summer and the staff and the place we throw a party for all staff.







The celebration used to be called Christmas. There would be a tree, carols, cookies, and a gift exchange. Staff would draw names earlier in the summer, and make--yes, make--a gift for that person. The recipient's identities would be about the best kept secret in the place next to who writes Ptarmigan Pturds, the staff spoofletter. In an attempt to be a bit more inclusive and to defuse some of the religious significance, we've made a shift from Christmas to Festivus to, finally, FallFest. No tree, different sorts of music, but we've retained the moose-shaped iced cookies, the lingonberries scattered down the center of the table, and the gift exchange.




Last night was the night, and because the job falls to someone on the offie staff, I was the appointed coordinator. We'd had some sun during the day, so we hoped that the rain would stay away. So when we gathered to take the staff photograph, the sun shone, but the rain fell, resulting in another spectacular rainbow. With the group photo taken, we moved back into Potlatch's dining hall decorated with construction paper cutouts of Sandhill Cranes, local berries, and colored leaves. And a few assorted snowflakes.





There was music, too. Three violin/fiddles, two recorders, one flute, three guitars, a cello, and a washtub bass. The musicians ranged in age from 9 to 87 and included a mother and daughter from Fairbanks, one of the founders of Camp Denali, and a cook from Tucson. This group set the tone for the evening, playing simple reels and jigs (after one rehearsal), some of the tunes set out from memory by the fiddlers. Toes tapped, staff children danced, Jack even played the spoons.




But the gift exchange, like last year's, was the highlight of the evening for me. The creativity and resourcefulness shown by the giftmakers, the attention to who is receiving the gift blows me away. The thoughtfulness, the painstaking searching for ideas, the humor shown.... There were metalwork candle boxes, an outhouse bank with seeds for Alaskan wildflowers, hand-painted tee-shirts, a huge exquisite quilt, appliqued pillow, caribou antler bracelets, jewelery boxes, picture frames, jams, an iron pot rack, even a porcupine hat for one of the guides.


The laughter moved easily to the close of the evening. Musicians played the dance tune Simple Gifts--so fitting for what we all gathered to share--and staff stood to sing through to the end of the song. While we cleaned up Potlatch and returned it to dining room status for guests' breakfast, the musicians continued to play. Silas toddled up to watch Jack play the spoons, four-year old Oliver hugged his father's neck while drowsing. Brian, the washboard bassist, picked up Anya's cello and added a deeper thrum to the melodies, Marshall--on someone's shoulders--pulled down the snowflakes we'd hung on the highest beam earlier in the day. All joined in, all made the evening complete.


About 11:30 I slipped out the door to start the walk down the hill. It was cool out, some clouds silhouetted against the silver sky, and over above Cranberry Ridge the moon was out. First moon we've seen since April. As I walked, I hummed the tunes we'd listened to, added a few of my own, and enjoyed the fresh air, the almost-dark night, and the joy of a rousing evening with folks I didn't know in June but who have become treasured friends.


Occasions like this change you. Those uncomplicated moments we've forgotten to notice once again gain importance, and things like presents, loosely assembled musicians, rainbows, moonlight and kindness remind us again of the blessing of simple gifts.














Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Cuppa Java


There's something about a cup of coffee first thing in the morning--the aroma, the warmth, the steam, the rich flavor. Even the mug...the thick white diner cups, that hand-thrown mug you found at a thrift shop, or the souvenir mug from Amish country. Whatever that cup of coffee is, in Alaska it seems to be obligatory.

Yes, we have tea drinkers, here at Camp Denali/North Face Lodge although I find tea in the morning lacks...well...a lot. Being from Boston, where drinking tea smacks of Royalism, I find I mostly drink tea in private, in the afternoon, in the winter. But coffee? The morning doesn't start without coffee. The drive doesn't start without coffee. Judging from the stream of guests entering the lodge before breakfast, their day doesn't start without coffee.

I shoehorned a trip to Anchorage into my last two days off. Not a particularly relaxing pair of days, but the trip was productive. The list for Wednesday left little time to spare--battery for MJ's watch, contact lens solution for Sarah, thread and fabric for a FallFest gift, meet Carley (for coffee) and pick up some stuff to bring back to Camp, stop by the bead store for supplies, run by Nordstrom for skin care products, swing into Starbucks for some Pike Place Blend--Decaf, and be done in time for dinner with friends. The next morning at 7:00, I was in the car (with a travel mug of coffee) and on the way back north.

But on the drive I was impressed by the sheer number of small coffee shacks one sees here in Alaska. These are little more than ice-fishing structures, taller than they are wide, with a door on one side for the proprietor, and a window on the other side where you drive up and communicate your order. Some sport hand-made signs, others blink brightly with neon. Nenana Coffee is, predictably, in Nenana. Right by the side of the road on the south side of town, and the only decent coffee between Healey and Fairbanks--roughly two and a half hours of driving.

Driving south to Anchorage that morning from the entrance to Denali National Park (withOUT a cup of coffee because nothing--that is, the Chevron station in Cantwell--was open at 4:45 a.m.), I was distracted first by the beauty of the drive, even on a rainy morning, but second, by the presence, every so often, of coffee shacks. At Trapper Creek, there is a huge building where you can get everything from a shower to liquor to propane to coffee; at the Talkeetna turn-off, there is a Subway that carries Seattle's Best Coffee (yes, I did, it's a four and a half hour drive). Then in Houston I saw a vehicle license plate: XPR-SSO. Then a sign for Aroma Borealis. In Anchorage there are Common Grounds, Terra Bella Coffee, Kaladi Brothers Coffee, Kobuk Coffee, and (I'm not sure why) Bustin' Ass Coffee. Walking through the Town Park in Anchorage, you almost can't hear conversations for the sound of milk steamers chorrrrrrffshshs-ing.

Maybe this is one of the reasons I love Alaska--pretty good coffee no matter where you look. Maybe the puns tickle the English major in me. Perhaps it's the entreprenurial spirit that resonates--Eklutna Coffee even has an E-Z return to expressway sign. Zip off the highway, swing through to get your coffee, back on the road again. You can set up business for the cost of a commercial-grade espresso machine. Demand and supply. Add a clever name? You've got cash flow.

Next time I drive south, though--in September after my last work day here--I will stop at Aroma Borealis. The name draws me in as surely as the olfactory promise.